Leonards Mill Restaurant Review 2014

Tucked into a quiet corner of the Fleurieu, historic Leonards Mill restaurant is a draw card in itself. Equidistant from McLaren Vale and Cape Jervis, the gateway to Kangaroo Island, Leonards Mill is the perfect stopping point or destination for a country & sea escape.


On arrival it is hard to not be impressed by the scale and beauty of the historic flour mill which houses the restaurant, function spaces, and stone cottage accommodation.

Under it’s current ownership for the past three and a half years, it has been a master stroke to welcome Brendan Wessels as Head Chef and Lindsay Durr as Head Patisserie Chef, both ex Lake House Restaurant in Daylesford.


 
Beautiful Leonards Mill. Photo: Mr Wino



 The restaurant is in the main building, with seating on the wide verandah, out in the garden under shady trees, in the sleekly renovated interior or on the mezzanine level. This creates a relaxed, outdoorsy atmosphere to enjoy the gob-smackingly beautiful, fine dining cuisine.

 
 
 
 
 
View of the Mill from the Garden. Photo: Willunga Wino
 
 
On a warm autumn day, the garden is a beautiful setting for lunch. Music tending to the pop side of the coin wafts over the tables. Kids play bocce on the lawns. 
 
Smiling staff bring bottles of chilled tap water and menus along with banter. Two key attributes of the perfect wait staff are friendliness and memory – here the staff have both by the bucket load.
 
 
 
 
 
Autumn menu. Photo: Willunga Wino
 
 
Choose from the more casual Simpler Fare menu, or two or three courses from the a la carte menu which really shines. Soon after ordering, we are offered a selection of complementary breads and olives. Short & crisp grissini have a hint of cheese & chunky sea salt, and come with local Carrickalinga olives fragrant with fennel and coriander seed
 
 
 
 
 
Local olives and house made grissini. Photo: Willunga Wino
 
 
House made sourdough is nice and holey, baguette soft and fresh, and a delish paprika spiced cracker  are presented in a deep earthenware dish from Mark Pearse’s pottery at Yankalilla, with a generous wedge of butter for smearing.


 
Complimentary house made bread. Photo: Willunga Wino


It is not long before our BYO ($18 corkage) McLaren Vale Winemakers Barbera is opened for us and entrees arrive. It is the most beautiful pair of dishes I have seen in recent times.

Kingfish sashimi includes sweet slivers of flesh, contrasted with tender but more toothsome towers of calamari. Mint chips provide crunch and fennel flowers add a burst of aniseed, along with fennel bulb and aoli.

 
Kingfish Sashimi. Photo: Willunga Wino
 
 
A rainbow of heirloom baby beets, gently poached in a mild pickling liquid stand up in a forest floor of earthy, mushroomy pearl barley risotto, beetroot puree, cool tart clouds of goat cherve and crunch from walnuts and toasted crisped grains and seeds.
 
 
 
 
 
Heirloom baby beets, barley risotto. Photo: Willunga Wino
 
 
Kangaroo Island lamb loin medallions are perfectly cooked. Pressed & sealed Southern Fleurieu lamb shoulder came as a rotolo with mustard seeds through it. Garnished with samphire and with jus poured at the table, there was a great balance between lean, tender meat, sweet charred shallots, crisp salty sea veg and onion puree.
 
 
 
 
Lamb two ways. Photo: Willunga Wino
 
 
Perfectly pan crusted parmesan gnocchi was al dente and cheesy. Smooth pumpkin puree and charred pumpkin pieces added a sweet note. Popped grains and seeds add crunch, and kale crisps give salty bitterness in a dish of delicious contrasts.
 
 
 
 
 
Amazingly balanced gnocchi. Photo: Willunga Wino
 
 
As tempting as the Asian-fusion peanut and black sesame dessert sounded, we went for the Easter sounding pears poached in red wine with gingerbread, and I was glad we did.
 
Large pieces of warm spiced dark gingerbread tasted just like Easter. Crunchy popped grains and nuts added contrast to the mulled wine flavoured pears. Smooth ice cream and creme cassonades – like little panna cottas – added another level of complexity as did the delicious milk chocolate crisp. 
 
 
 
 
Gingerbread and poached pear dessert. Photo: Willunga Wino
 
 
While you are there, take a peek inside the restaurant to admire the dark wood and white paint makeover, and the proliferation of art including sculpture.
 
 
 
 
Welcoming bar area. Photo: Willunga Wino

Leonards Mill offers fine dining cuisine in a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. Now that we’ve discovered it, we’ll be back!

Rating : 5 Glasses 
Price: $$
Menu – Mod oz. Simpler fare menu or A La Carte with 2 courses for $60, 3 courses for $80.
Meal Size: From snacks, morning & afternoon tea, to full meal size.
Atmosphere / Ambiance:  Historic, relaxed, fine dining.
Standout Dish: Parmesan gnocchi with pumpkin.
Service: Attentive & chatty but not interfering.
Online Booking: Yes, by Dimmi.
Restaurant Details and Location:

http://www.leonardsmill.com/

Main South Rd, 
Second Valley SA 5204
Tel No: 08 8598 4184

Opening Hours: Wednesday to Sunday coffee 11 am; Lunch from midday; Friday and Saturday night dinner from 6pm
Access: Onsite shady park.

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