The Russell’s cat is truly out of the bag.
The good burghers at the Sydney Morning Herald put Russell’s on their top 10 Foodie Must-Do’s in August 2013 which cemented it’s place on the radar of every Fairfax reader.
Even with it a mere stroll from my front door, booking several weeks in advance has always been a must. Sometimes in summer, the doors are flung open on a Thursday as “locals night” in addition to the regular Friday & Saturday night openings.
By day, Russell’s blends perfectly into the heritage character cottages lining High St Willunga, sitting unassumingly behind a pretty native garden and rustic restored cottage (watch the steps, and your head if you are tall!).
Young pizzaolo roll and top and wield paddles in the wood fired oven at a rapid and constant pace, while the maitre’d welcomes groups, dispenses take away orders, and plates up delicious looking slabs of cake.
You could enjoy the sunset in the garden, or on the verandah.
Or, cosy up by the fire.
Music, the glow of candlelight and chatter wafts with the alluring scent of pizza from within the cottage, another option for dining.
You can state your preference when booking, all are charming.
Alternatively, and my usual option, is to pay $35 a head for “2 courses” of a generous appetizer platter, as many pizzas of your choice as you can eat, and corkage. If you have a second stomach for desserts – there is also a three course option.
I love BYO.
At Russell’s, you can bring a special bottle or two, or, an esky full, as the locals regularly do.
Being in the heart of the McLaren Vale wine region, you are spoilt for choice of meditteranean variety wines, perfectly matched to pizza.
Try the Aglianico two doors up at Hither & Yon, or next door at Minko.
When it’s hot, we pair the pizzas usually with a rose.
Perhaps the strawberries & cream fragrant and crisp finishing Swings & Roundabouts Margaret River 2013 Rose. It is light & crisp, with a nice acid line that provides good length. The Melbourne Wine Show agreed, giving it a handy bauble.
Fresh McLaren Vale olive oil is delivered to Russell’s in two litre flagons, and is poured generously.
Crusty bread is perfectly soft in the centre just made for dipping.
One component of the starter is the best dukkah I’ve ever tasted – and insiders tip – you can buy it next door at Minko Wines & Providore.
The salad component is rustic and thick cut – great for sharing sans cutlery. Wash your hands first!
Garlicky lemony mushrooms retain a fresh crunch.
I can never decide if they are my favourite, or the dukkah, or green beans, or…or…or..!
Crisp, new season almonds are warm and intensely flavoursome.
Pickled baby beets, new asparagus, wood oven roasted capsicum, cumin sweet heirloom carrots, sweet peas, beans, fetta, olives and radishes round it out.
If you’re dining a la carte, you can buy a bread & dukkah plate separately ($8) or likewise a salad plate ($8) and if you ask extra nicely, a half and half.
As part of the all you can eat two or three course option you also recieve a serving of the oven baked meatballs with a tomato based sauce. They are moist, flavoursome and delicious.
Tonight we team the groaning platter with a Kiwi beer, the Belgian Tripel style Moa St Joesephs, with banana aromas, caramel, and hop bitterness plus a swag of Asia, NZ & Aus beer awards.
Bases are bubbled and crisp at the edges, overall a little thicker than those at Beach Road Wines.
The Lamb Turkish is always popular, with it’s distinct shape and fresh topping of Kangaroo Island Sheep Milk Yogurt, cucumber and tomato.
Round two is the “white” anchovy pizza, with sweet onion and salty anchovy spots.
Devoured before there is time to take a picture.
Veggie Supreme has feta, broccoli, eggplant, potato, olives and onion. It is delectable.
Enjoy it with an open heart & open mind.
Produce is pure, local and changes with the seasons, as does the experience.
Relax, ease into country time, and do as the locals do and byo a lovely local drop or two.
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Rating : 5 Glasses
Price: $$
Menu – Pizza, appetisers, cake
Atmosphere / Ambience: Historic, rustic, casual, welcoming, unique, bustling.
Standout Dish: Margherita pizza and the appetizer plates.
Service: Friendly.
Online Booking: No – bookings need to be made by phone, usually 3 weeks in advance.
Restaurant Details and Location:
Russell’s Pizza
Tel No: 08 8556 2571
Meal Size: All you can eat
13 High St, Willunga
Opening Hours: Friday & Saturday: 6:00 pm – 11:30 pm
Access: Plenty of on street parking.